CEMENT

What sets us apart from other installers is the type of cement mix we use. Look at their websites. They don’t even talk about what type of cement to use. My competitors have no clue, or they are a cunning “wolf” looking for repeat business in 20 years.

WHAT’S WRONG WITH “TYPE S MORTAR”

  •  It is NOT an anchor cement
  •  It is NOT a hydraulic cement
  •  Type S is only intended to set bricks or cinderblocks, or for light stucco work
  •  Type-S “Material Data Sheet” from the manufacturer says it’s only for use with masonry. Better listen to what they say. 
  •  Type-S doesn’t properly adhere to steel – it’s not meant for steel contact. Cellar doors are steel.
  •  Sadly, 95%+ of installers use Type S Mortar to set their Cellar Doors


Bilco and Steelway both know that using Type-S mortar is a total disaster for their products. I’ve talked with them, and they both said it. It cracks away, and then moisture from condensation runs into the crack, and just sits there. It rusts out the whole bottom. There’s no disputing their position, they are 100% correct. This is exactly why many cellar doors rust out, and have to be replaced in only 20 years.


Because of the Type-S mortar problem, some installers are leveling the foundation with new cement (90% are deteriorated or otherwise not level), but not cementing the cellar door in place. Then, they apply a bead of silicone-type caulking, and then screw or nail-pin the unit into the new perfectly-level foundation. There’s two major problems with this method (1) the traditional cement just poured to make a level foundation is not going to be cured enough for the proper installation of screws or nail-pins. It won’t be, for 1 – 2 days in warm weather, and even longer in cool 40’s – 50’s weather. (2) it’s common knowledge among contractors, and even among many customers, that caulk has no strength. It doesn’t last forever, and it doesn’t adhere as well to cement as it does to wood or metal. Especially not to cement that is still slightly moist, sandy, and out-gassing. Our experience is that this is a failed installation. The unit will leak along the base, it will rust out, and it may even be slightly wobbly. Contractors who understand everything I’m saying here cringe at the very idea of installing a cellar door. They don’t want the problems.

Normal Condensation Often Occurs Inside The Unit

Type-s mortar cracked away, rust caused by condensation. Notice how the green painted area is not as rusted. The rust is focused exactly upon the failed type-s mortar area.

The super-strong hydraulic anchor cement that we use is 1000 times better than silicone caulking, without all the problems of Type-S mortar. Hydraulic cement keeps out water. That’s why the product exists. It cures fast too, and we can set screws or nail-pins in 30 – 90 minutes. So it costs us more on material. My attitude is “who cares, we save much more on time and labor, so it’s actually not costing us more, AND we get the job done right.” The unit is set very strong, and it is not going to rust out in 20 or 30 years.


I don’t need your repeat business in 20 or 30 years. I’ll be retired by then. But if I install your cellar door using the correct cement (and by glazing instead of painting), it will hold up so well that I will get referrals. That’s the business I want. I want my phone ringing, and not to spend a dime on internet advertising.


OUR CONCRETE SPECIFICATIONS

WE USE A HYDRAULIC ANCHOR CEMENT

1. 9,000 psi (pounds per square inch)

  •  Used for Anchoring / better than “anchor cement”.
  •  Type S mortar is 1800 psi
  •  Portland Cement is 3000 psi


2. Hydraulic Cement

  •  Meant for basement walls, swimming pools, drainage systems, foundations, elevator pits, marine applications
  •  That’s what you want, right? “Block all water penetration”
  •  Meant to completely block all water penetration, indefinitely

3. Designed for Steel Contact, including Manholes set in concrete.

  •  We see how it sticks to our (steel) trowels. We know how hard it is to sand this cement off of the trowels, compared to other cements.
  •  That’s the proof that this is the best of all cements to anchor a steel cellar door.Meant to completely block all water penetration, indefinitely


4. Fast-Setting and “non-shrink”


5. Feather-Edge applications, and up to 4” thick


6. Yes, it’s paintable, and/or a thin Type-S mortar can be applied over it in the future, to have exact look as rest of the house foundation.


7. Installers who know about this cement still don’t want to use it. It’s three times the price of other cements per bag, it’s tough to work with, and it’s even tougher to clean the trowels and buckets. 


8. Meets ASTM C1107 Standards

  •  Army Corp Certified CRD C621 as well


EXAMPLES OF WHAT CAN BE DONE

See the below pictures. None of these applications can be done with Type-S Mortar. Absolutely not.



Yes, this can be done with a hydraulic anchor cement. It has that “feather edge” quality, and it won’t crack away in the future. If anything, it “feathers” too well, and I have a bottle of acid wash when we need to remove any excess from bricks or stones, past where I wanted to feather.


WHAT ARE YOUR RIGHTS ???”

  •  Ethics in this business is important. I’m installing it the best way, and I’m happy that the job is done right.


  •  We don’t care that our materials cost is $50 or $100 higher if we use a hydraulic anchor cement. It’s just “part of the job”, to do it right.


  •  We spend extra time to clean our trowels and buckets, so you have the best cement for the job.


  •  YOU DESERVE to have the best cement, and not to have a contractor that doesn’t know what cement product to use, or who wants to cut corners to save a little money.

MY CELLAR DOORS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO BE REMOVED

Share by: